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Frequently Asked Questions
Breeders -
What is a reputable breeder?
They choose breeding stock carefully, with an eye to physical and temperamental soundness. They choose a stud because he is complementary to the bitch and not because he is
nearby, popular or cheap. They breed ony for the purpose of preserving or improving the breed and never for ego satisfaction, financial gain or "because she/he ought to be bred at least once". They provide the bitch with a warm, safe, comfortable place to whelp and care for her pups. Provides pre- and post-natal veterinary care for the bitch and her pups. They begin a vaccination program before the bitch is bred and continues it when the pups are the proper age. They are to supply previous buyers as references and not just those who bought show dogs or who co-own dogs with the breeder. They belong to a local or regional breed club and is willing and able to supply the names of officers and members of that club as references. They are very concerned that all pups are placed in suitable homes. To that end,
personal interviews with buyers are conducted with information requested about life-style, children, other animals, fencing and general knowledge of the breed. They provide proper contracts, guarantees, medical records and pedigree all in writing and understood by all concerned. They accepts life-long responsibility for the pups' welfare, assisting when necessary in finding a suitable new home for dogs whose family circumstances change. They stay in touch with puppy-buyers, ready with advice, referrals, assistance and empathy.
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What a reputable breeder is NOT -
Reputable Breeders Do Not......
Sell puppies under the age of 8 weeks; breed puppies purely for financial gain; sell to agents/dealers/pet shops or sell to buyers they have not met personally and screened for suitability; have more than one or two litters at the same time or advertise multiple litters from a wide variety of popular breeds (those who do are clearly commercial breeders or dealers); charge buyers extra if they want a puppy with a Kennel Club registration; sell puppies without a Kennel Club Registration unless this is clearly explained to the buyer at the time of sale; register puppies with alternative commercial registries such as: The CKC (Continental Kennel Club), which are used mainly by puppy mills and those who cannot comply with strict Kennel Club restrictions (on how many litters a bitch can have, etc). CKC papers are considered to be worthless by many as there is no verification of information supplied by breeders & no restrictions whatsoever. Someone could register a litter of cross-breeds as "Siberian Huskies" with the CKC, using completely fictitious "pedigrees" without any problems at all!; claim the breed has no hereditary problems - every breed generally has at least one or two; go for the "hard sell" approach & try to persuade enquirers to buy one of their puppies as quickly as possible, "before they all go!"; advertise puppies in local free-ad papers/publications like The Thrifty Nickel, or on their equivalent websites; puppy mills/dealers frequently advertise in such papers whereas reputable breeders rely more on word of mouth & recommendations from other breeders or Breed Clubs.
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What is a puppy mill?
A “puppy mill” is a derogatory term used to describe breeders who produce large numbers of puppies purely for commercial gain - such breeders pay little regard to the health or temperament of their puppies & they will sell a pup to whoever wants one, no questions asked. Many of these pups are taken away from their mothers at an early age & are transported long distances to be placed on sale in pet shops - these pups often have health problems & sadly may have poor temperaments due to bad breeding and/or lack of socialisation. Some of these breeders operate outside the law & keep their dogs in appalling conditions, breeding from bitches every season until they are worn out & then discarding them. Other large-scale commercial breeders operate from reasonably clean conditions, are licensed by their local authority & register their pups with the Kennel Club but can still be classed as “puppy mills” as the aim is still to mass produce puppies for profit – there will be no health-screening for hereditary problems, puppies will be inadequately socialised & bitches will still be over-bred. For more information on the trade in puppies & puppy milling in general, have a look at this web site: http://mysite.freeserve.com/puppy_alert/index.htm.
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What is a backyard breeder?
This term covers those breeders with no serious interest in or knowledge of Siberian Huskies but who may own a bitch & decide that it would be nice to have a litter on the basis that it would be educational for the children or will help pay for the family holiday! If they happen to own a male themselves, they will use him and if not, they will use the nearest, available dog. Often no research will have been carried out into whether the dogs’ pedigrees are compatible & there will be no knowledge of possible hereditary problems & very little awareness of how to rear puppies successfully. This can result in a nice, healthy litter (more by luck than good judgment!) but can also result in puppies with health/temperament problems. Sadly such breeders will lack the knowledge/experience to provide any after-sales help to their buyers.
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How do I find a reputable breeder?
A pet store is NOT the place to buy a puppy! To start your search, contact the AKC, plus local All Breed and local breed specific clubs and ask for their roster of breeders that belong to their clubs. Attend a local dog show. Show catalogs list the names and addresses of the owners of entered dogs. You can also talk to the owners and handlers of the dogs (though not when they're about to go into the ring!) and get some leads that way. Learn about your breed before you look to buy one. Read the breed standard, find out about grooming requirements, typical temperaments, health problems that are common in the breed, etc. Irresponsible breeders hate educated buyers! Attend an event such as the America's Family Pet Show and talk to people who own the breed you want. Price alone should not be a factor in deciding what breeder to buy from. While a high price doesn't necessarily guarantee high quality, a very low price often does not turn out to be a bargain in the long run. Find out what typical prices are for show and pet quality puppies of your breed in your area. Be patient. You may have to wait a few months (or longer) to find the right dog from a good breeder. This is a very short time compared with the ten to fifteen years that a dog will live with you.
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I am thinking about breeding by female Siberian Husky. What advice can you give me?
Before you consider breeding, there are some things you need to do first.
First, your bitch needs to be checked for genetic defects. This includes having her eyes checked by a veterinarian eye specialist. There are several hereditary eye diseases in Siberians, and you might not be aware if your dog is affected as they don't all significantly affect vision. This is an absolute MUST; you don't want to pass on a deformity to your puppies. This vet should be a member of ACVO, an organization of ophthalmic specialists. The common hereditary eye problems in Siberians are Juvenile Cataracts, Corneal Dystrophy, and Progressive Retinal Atrophy. They don't always show up in young dogs, so your bitch needs to be checked after the age of two. The results of the exam will be written on a special form which you will then need to send to CERF (http://www.vmdb.org) or the Siberian Husky Ophthalmic Registry (SHOR - http://www.shca.org/shcahp7.htm), two registering organizations that publish the names of dogs who have clear eyes. This exam needs to have been done within the last year.
Second, you need to get her hips x-rayed and evaluated for hip dysplasia. Any vet can do the x-rays, but they need to be sent in to the Orthopedic Foundation of America (http://www.offa.org), or OFA, for the evaluation. They will give the hips a rating; hip dysplasia is not common in Siberians, and we'd like to keep it that way. The cost of this is generally over $100, depending on your veterinarian. The dog must be at least 2 years old.
Because eye and hip clearances can't be accurately done before age two, most Siberians should not be bred before then.
Most stud owners will require these tests before considering breeding to your girl, and many puppy buyers are also requiring these clearances. The male should also have been evaluated and cleared for these problems as well.
Third, your girl needs to be evaluated by a knowledgeable breeder, most likely the stud's owner, for overall quality. Not all dogs are worthy of being bred; in fact, most are not. The genetic background and pedigree of the bitch is also important. So is the compatibility of her line with that of the male's.
She also needs to have a blood test for brucellosis. This is a highly contagious venereal disease which will render an infected dog sterile. Most stud owners will require it be done within 30-90 days prior to the breeding. You should also require this test on the male.
Then you need to really think about your responsibilities for the future puppies. Siberians are not a breed suitable for everybody, and sometimes people buy puppies without knowing enough about the breed; as the puppies get older they will become very active, independent, and destructive, and sometimes their owners will want to get rid of them. Are you prepared to take them back or help the buyers find new homes? If you are not, please don't consider breeding. Our rescue is FULL of unwanted dogs produced by uncaring breeders and placed in homes without suitable screening of the owners. Most of the show exhibitors/breeders will not breed to a pet because they don't want those puppies needing to be rescued. And it can happen years down the road.
You also need to consider the possible complications of a pregnancy and the possibility of having your bitch die. Can you afford the $700+ for an emergency C-section? What if the mother dies and you are left with orphan pups? Can you handle bottle feeding and pottying a litter every 2 hours for 2-3 weeks? These things do happen; they've happened to me and to other breeders. Most Siberians are good whelpers and mothers, but tragedy can and does strike.
The cost of a stud service varies depending on the male and his owner. You are probably looking at $500+, more if the dog is a champion or has other titles. Then there is the work and costs of raising the pups to at least 8 weeks of age. Two days after birth the front dewclaws (and rear ones if there are any) on the puppy need to be removed. Unless you can do this surgery yourself, this requires another vet visit. Most vets charge $5-10 per puppy. Puppies eat a lot! Premium dog food costs $25+ for 40 lbs, and a big litter can go through a sack every 2-3 weeks. Puppies should be wormed every week or two starting with week 3. They need to have had at least one shot. Unless you have experience giving shots, this requires yet another vet visit. These can be as high as $20 per puppy. Have you added up the $30+ for each office visit, too? As they get older, puppies become very active. They chew up things, they get into things, they pee, they poop, they scream. They'll need a big, securely fenced pen, and you'll need lots of newspaper. Puppies need to be with their mother and littermates until 8 weeks of age as they learn many important social skills at that age, so you won't want to place them in new homes before then. In fact many states require that you NOT sell puppies before they are 8 weeks old, and many also require Health Certificates which cost around $25+ per puppy! And have you checked out the cost of an ad in your newspaper lately? What if you don't have enough buyers? Can you keep the puppies longer if necessary? And are you sure you can sell the puppies?
If this sounds like gloom and doom, I intended it to. Breeding is a HUGE responsibility; done right, it costs more money than it brings in, and there are no guarantees of anything except the ones you provide your puppy buyers. Sure the puppies are cute and cuddly, but they are also loud, messy, and destructive. They have to be wormed and have shots. They eat LOTS! They poop LOTS!! And they are YOUR responsibility for LIFE!
I hope this answers your question, or at least gives you a perspective to think about. If you are hesitant about any of this, please don't breed your bitch. Get her spayed. She will be a happier, healthier pet with less chance of uterine infection or breast cancer in the long run.
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I am thinking about breeding by male Siberian Husky. What advice can you give me?
Before you consider breeding, there are some things you need to do first.
First, your male needs to be checked for genetic defects. This includes having his eyes checked by a veterinarian eye specialist. There are several hereditary eye diseases in Siberians, and you might not be aware if your dog is affected as they don't all significantly affect vision. This is an absolute MUST; you don't want to pass on a deformity to any puppies. This vet should be a member of ACVO, an organization of ophthalmic specialists. The common hereditary eye problems in Siberians are Juvenile Cataracts, Corneal Dystrophy, and Progressive Retinal Atrophy. They don't always show up in young dogs, so your male needs to be checked after the age of two. The results of the exam will be written on a special form which you will then need to send to CERF (http://www.vmdb.org) or the Siberian Husky Ophthalmic Registry (SHOR - http://www.shca.org/shcahp7.htm), two registering organizations that publish the names of dogs who have clear eyes. This exam needs to have been done within the last year.
Second, you need to get his hips x-rayed and evaluated for hip dysplasia. Any vet can do the x-rays, but they need to be sent in to the Orthopedic Foundation of America (http://www.offa.org), or OFA, for the evaluation. They will give the hips a rating; hip dysplasia is not common in Siberians, and we'd like to keep it that way. The cost of this is generally over $100, depending on your veterinarian. The dog must be at least 2 years old.
Because eye and hip clearances can't be accurately done before age two, most Siberians should not be bred before then.
Most bitch owners will require these tests before considering breeding to your boy, and many puppy buyers are also requiring these clearances. The female should also have been evaluated and cleared for these problems as well.
Third, your boy needs to be evaluated by a knowledgeable breeder, most likely the bitch's owner, for overall quality. Not all dogs are worthy of being bred; in fact, most are not. The genetic background and pedigree of your male is also important. So is the compatibility of his line with that of the female's.
She also needs to have a blood test for brucellosis. This is a highly contagious venereal disease which will render an infected dog sterile. Most bitch owners will require it be done within 30-90 days prior to the breeding. You should also require this test on the female.
Then you need to really think about your responsibilities for the future puppies. What responsibility? Well, you are half responsibile for those puppies your dog sires! So read on... Siberians are not a breed suitable for everybody, and sometimes people buy puppies without knowing enough about the breed; as the puppies get older they will become very active, independent, and destructive, and sometimes their owners will want to get rid of them. Are you prepared to take them back or help the buyers find new homes if the bitch's owners cannot? If you are not, please don't consider breeding. Our rescue is FULL of unwanted dogs produced by uncaring breeders and placed in homes without suitable screening of the owners. Most of the show exhibitors/breeders will not breed to a pet because they don't want those puppies needing to be rescued. And it can happen years down the road. Yes, you are probably looking at making some money, but your responsibility does NOT stop there!
If this sounds like gloom and doom, I intended it to. Breeding is a HUGE responsibility; done right, it costs more money than it brings in, and there are no guarantees of anything except the ones you provide your puppy buyers. Sure the puppies are cute and cuddly, but they are also loud, messy, and destructive. They have to be wormed and have shots. They eat LOTS! They poop LOTS!! And they are YOUR responsibility for LIFE!
I hope this answers your question, or at least gives you a perspective to think about. If you are hesitant about any of this, please don't breed your male. Get him neutered. He will be a happier, healthier pet with less chance of testicular cancer in the long run.
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I don't want a fancy "show puppy", I just want a good pet!
The most important job that any dog has is to be a good pet! There are several qualities that a dog needs to have to be a good pet. It should be healthy and well-socialized (to children, other people, and other animals). In addition, it should grow up to look and act like what you would expect of a dog of that breed- after all, you chose a breed based on the characteristics that it should have. A Siberian Husky puppy should grow up to be a 40 - 60 pound dog. It should not grow up to be a 120-pound dog that fights with other dogs, hates kids, and cannot be housebroken. If someone simply breeds two unevaluated Siberian Huskies together, the offspring may not look or act like a true Siberian Husky should. If these offspring are bred to other unevaluated dogs, pretty soon you will have dogs that are Siberian Huskies in name only but that look and act nothing like a well-bred Siberian Husky. In addition, anyone who buys a dog as a family pet want to ensure that the dog is healthy. Responsible breeders will ensure this by doing the proper genetic testing to ensure that the parents of their puppies are healthy. Less reputable breeders are unlikely to know that such tests exist, let alone do them. In most cases, the people who are truly responsible breeders do show their dogs, in order to determine that they do indeed resemble the breed that they are supposed to be. Show and performance events are how responsible breeders make sure that their dogs both look and act how their breeds are supposed to look and act. And they keep their dogs as house pets, so they know that their offspring will be good pets as well. Every litter of "show puppies" has some dogs that will never be the show ring. They may be Siberian Huskies that are a half inch too big, too much curl in the tail, or a bite that is not a scissors bite. These pups have been raised with as much planning, medical attention and socialization as their show-quality littermates. They make the best possible pets.
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General -
I have a new Siberian Husky. What is the best book you can recommend?
For a new owner, and even for someone who has had Siberian Huskies before, the best books for general information on the breed are: Siberian Huskies for Dummies, and The New Complete Siberian Husky. Both can be found on Amazon's web site (http://www.Amazon.com).
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Where can I get more information about the breed on the internet?
Of course, the first place to start is on the American Kennel Club's web site (http://www.akc.org). The second place to go is to the Siberian Husky Club of America's web site (http://www.shca.org). They have links to local clubs and breeders listed by state. Another place is the Colors of the Siberian web site (http://www.huskycolors.com). Also, check out the Iditarod's (http://www.iditarod.com) web site to see what our Siberian Huskies were bred for!
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How do Siberian Huskies deal with heat?
As stated repeatedly throughout this document, Siberian Huskies are remarkably adaptable animals. So long as they have adequate shade, shelter, and water, the seem to do just fine in warmer climates. One important note: no matter how hot you think your Siberian is, DO NOT shave him/her! Their double coat insulates them against the heat as well as the cold. You would be doing more harm than good to shave the dog.
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I live in a hot part of the country. Will this be uncomfortable for my Siberian Husky?
The best approach to this problem is to select a dog from a reputable breeder in your area or that lives in an area with a similar climate to yours. These dogs will be well acclimated to the warmer weather than a Siberian Husky from a cooler climate. However, so long as the dog is well taken care of, brushed regularly, has plenty of water and shade (they REALLY like Air Conditioning, too!), he/she will likely be just fine in your warm climate. Siberian Huskies are found all over the world, from the deep southern part of the United States, where it is very warm and humid, to South Africa, Russia, New Zealand, Australia, and Alaska. Literally all over the globe in every climate you can imagine. Again, one important note: no matter how hot you think your Siberian is, DO NOT shave him/her! Their double coat insulates them against the heat as well as the cold. You would be doing more harm than good to shave the dog.
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Just how cold can a Siberian Husky live in?
Siberian Huskies can work and live in temperatures as low as 75 degrees Fahrenheit below zero.
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Can Siberians have different colored eyes?
Yes. This is fairly common in the breed. One eye may be blue while the other is brown called "bi-eyed". Also, one eye may contain two different colors called "parti-color". they unique tradmarks of the breed do not make them more apt to have eye problems. Please, see also the AKC Standard for the Siberian Husky (http://www.akc.org/breeds/recbreeds/sibhusk.cfm) and the "Colors of the Siberian Husky" web page for coat and eye color variations and the diversity of the breed (http://www.huskycolors.com/).
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Is there something wrong with an eye that is both brown and blue?
No. This is called a "parti-colored" eye. It is also fairly common in the breed. One or both eyes may be all blue with a brown pie shaped wedge, or all brown with a blue wedge. At first glance, it may appear that there is something wrong with the eye but there is not. It is simply a matter if pigmentation. This too is perfectly acceptable in the breed.
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I thought Siberin Huskies were only grey and white. What other colors can they be?
The AKC (American Kennel Club) standard for the Siberian Husky states... "All colors from black to pure white are allowed. A variety of markings on the head is common, including many striking patterns not found in other breeds." Therefore, all colors are acceptable. Please see also, the AKC's standard for the Siberian Husky (www.akc.org/breeds/siberian_husky/index.cfm) or another wonderful page dedicated to the Colors of the Siberian Husky (www.huskycolor.com).
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Why are some Siberian noses partially pink and partially black?
This is called a "snow nose", and is fairly common in the breed. A snow nose is a reddish or pink marking on a black or liver colored nose. Snow nose can disappear over warmer months and reappear over the winter months. There is nothing wrong with a snow nose, and it is perfectly acceptable in the breed. See also the AKC Standard for the Siberian Husky (http://www.akc.org/breeds/recbreeds/sibhusk.cfm).
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Are Siberian Huskies part wolf?
No. The Siberian Husky is a domesticated pure bred dog and has been for many centuries. They are sometimes mistaken for wolves, and they are sometimes used in movies to depict wolves, but they are most certainly NOT wolves or part wolf. See also the AKC Standard for the Siberian Husky (http://www.akc.org/breeds/recbreeds/sibhusk.cfm).
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I've heard Siberians are dumb. Is that true?
No! Siberian Huskies are extremely intelligent working dogs. People often mistake the fact that they can be difficult to train as a sign of stupidity. One must keep the Siberian interested and challenge his intelligence in order to properly train him. A Siberian will probably know what you want him to do, he just may not want to do it! This is a desirable trait that goes back to the workability of the dog. Consider this: You are mushing out over a frozen lake and you command your lead dog to go out over a stretch of ice. You must trust your lead dog to DISOBEY you, if he/she sences that the ice is thin, in order to keep you and the team safe.
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My Siberian Husky is an escape artist. He constantly gets out of the yard. What can I do?
This too is a very simple problem to solve. Siberians can be mischievous, and as a result can be notorious escape artists. The best solution to this problem is an electrified wire at the top, and or bottom of your fence, depending on the problem (digging or climbing or both). You can obtain a cheap, low power, electric charger at any home improvement store. Also available are two solar powered ones. The shock they produce is very small, sort of a strong static electric shock, and the dogs absolutely hate it. With the little wire at the bottom, they stay about 8 inches away from the fence at all times. All it takes is one shock. I do not recommend the "invisible fence" type of arrangement for a variety of reasons that I will not go into here. Lastly, I will mention that there is NO substitution for diligent supervision. Any dog that is a "problem" in the neighborhood (and violating most county's leash laws), can be annoying and troublesome to your neighbors. This can all be avoided by crate training your dog and bringing him/her into the house while you are away.
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Temperament -
What is the proper temperament of the Siberian Husky?
The Siberian Husky has a delightful temperament, affectionate but not fawning. This gentle and friendly disposition may be a heritage from the past, since the
Chukchi people held their dogs in great esteem, housed them in the family shelters, and encouraged their children to play with them. The Siberian Husky is alert, eager to please, and adaptable. An aggressive dog is not a team dog, and therefore a lousy sled dog. Siberians are an EXTREMELY intelligent and independent breed. They can be very stubborn, owing to their original purpose, and they are
easily bored. This independent and stubborn nature may at times challenge your ingenuity. His versatility makes him an agreeable companion to people of all ages and varying interests. However, this is not a breed that is typically recommended for first-time dog owners, as mistakes are easy to make and sometimes difficult to fix with this remarkably intelligent and opportunistic breed.
While capable of showing strong affection for his family, the Siberian Husky is not usually a one-man dog. He exhibits no fear or suspicion of strangers and is as likely to greet a would be thief as warmly as a trusted family member. This is not the temperament of a watch-dog, although a Siberian Husky may unwittingly act as a deterrent to those ignorant of his true hospitable nature, simply due to his intense personality and appearance.
Due to the increasing popularity of the breed, many Siberians are being bred without proper consideration of the special characteristics outlined here that make the Siberian Husky a unique breed. If you plan to purchase a puppy or older dog, please take into account this temperament summary. Siberians that show these temperament characteristics are good representations of the breed, and make excellent companions.
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I've heard that Siberian Huskies are "cat killers" is this true?
They can be. It depends on how they are socialized as puppies and how strong their prey-drive is. If they are not socialized to smaller animals as puppies, they will likely kill most small animals they encounter (rabbits, squirrels, cats, etc). Siberian Huskies, as a breed, have a very strong prey drive. What this means is that most have the natural instinct to hunt. Small furry animals that run away, are likely to be chased, and unfortunately in some cases killed. I do not recommend bringing a Siberian Husky into a home with a cat. While some will do all right in this situation, most will not. Only on one occasion have I placed a puppy in a home with a cat. The cat was 12 weeks old and the puppy was 10 weeks old. The fact that they grew up together allowed the cat to become a "pack member". This same dog did not regard neighborhood cats in the same way.
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I have a newborn/small child. Is he/she safe with my Siberian Husky?
It is never a good idea to trust any dog around a small child unsupervised, no matter how docile the dog (and child) seem. Be extremely careful and supervise the dog and child. Gradually introduce the situation to both to make them both comfortable. Bringing home a hospital blanket that the baby has been wrapped in can help the dog get accustomed to the new scents before the baby arrives, and since it was brought home by you, it is received in a positive light. This advice has nothing to do with the Siberian Husky breed in particular, as Siberian Huskies are supposed to be able to get along well with people as well as other dogs because of their "team" instinct.
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I've heard that Siberian Huskies are "high strung". Is that true?
Yes and no. Siberians are a very energetic breed. As a working dog, they need something to do, some way of challenging their intelligence and an outlet for their energy. If they are not provided one, they will find one for themselves - occasionally with destructive consequences.
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I've heard that Siberian Huskies are mischevious? Is that true?
Yes and no. Siberians are very intelligent dogs. They will often do things that surprise their owners. They can get into things that one might think are impossible. When Siberians are bored, they can become quite mischievous, inventive, and destructive. This is typical of working dogs. This is why it is so important to include the Siberian in family activities and give him plenty of attention and exercise.
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Coat and Grooming -
How should I care for my Siberian's coat?
The Siberian Husky is a comparatively easy dog to care for. He is by nature fastidiously clean and is typically free from body odor and parasites. Siberians sometimes clean themselves like cats. Twice a year, Siberians "blow" their undercoats, that is, they shed their undercoats completely. It is a VERY intense shedding period that can last three weeks or more from start to finish. The good news is that this only happens twice a year. The remainder of the time, Siberians shed relatively little with regular daily brushing. Some people feel that this periodic problem is easier to cope with than the constant shedding and renewal of many smooth-coated breeds. The bad news is that the shedding period can be rather messy. The hair comes out in large and small clumps. Lots of vacuuming and brushing are in order. It should be noted, however, that this shedding "schedule" is *climate dependent*. Some owners that live in very warm climes, ones that lack clearly defined "seasonal changes," report some shedding year round in the breed. Other than during coat-blowing season, the Siberian needs very little grooming. NO trimming or shaving of hair is required or recommended. Just a quick daily brushing against the way the hair lays, to remove dead hair and keep the coat fresh and shiny is required.
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How should I care for my Siberian's nails/feet?
Their nails should be checked and clipped periodically (every 1 - 3 weeks), and their feet should be checked regularly to ensure good health, particularly in actively working dogs. Trimming of the hair around the pads of the feet is recommended especially to keep burs and mud from collecting in the hair.
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I feel sorry for my Siberian Husky because it is hot. The groomer asked me if I wantedhim/her shaved. Should I do it?
NO, NO, NO!! I have on more than one occassion met a groomer who shaves Siberian Huskies on a regular basis. They simply do NOT understand the purpose of a double-coat which this breed has! Consider this: You are in the desert. Would you be walking around in a T-shirt and shorts? Absolutely, not! You would have on insulating,cooling layers to both protect you and absorb your sweat. It is this cooling effect that a double-coat provides that protects your Siberian Husky! Please, if you feel sorry for your dog because it it hot outside, instead of shaving him/her, consider bringing him/her into the air conditioning with you.
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Feeding -
How long should I feed puppy food?
Some research indicates that feeding puppy food for too long can increase the incidence of hip dysplasia (and other orthopedic problems) in dogs that are susceptible to it (fast growing breeds). Some breeders start feeding adult food very soon. Even though the Siberian is not fully mature until 18 months, most people gradually switch to adult dog food at the 8-10 month time frame. Again, this is something to discuss with your breeder and veterinarian.
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How much should I feed my Siberian Husky?
When you pick up your new puppy, your breeder should tell you what the puppy's diet has been to date, as well as recommendation as to the best food and feeding frequency
in the future, both for while the dog is still a puppy as well as when the dog is an adult. You should try and follow the puppy's diet at the time you collect him from the breeder as best you can, until the puppy is settled in to its new environment. Then you can gradually change the diet to suit your preferences. Remember that sudden changes in diet can severely disrupt the puppy's digestive system and cause gastric distress.
The Siberian requires a relatively small amount of food for his size. This trait may be traced to the origins of the breed, as the Chukchi's developed their dogs to pull a light load at a fast pace over great distances in low temperatures on the smallest possible intake of food. Therefore, excess caloric intake can make your Husky, well, "husky"!
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What brand of food should I feed my Siberian Husky?
As for the type and "brand" of dog food, basically any reputable dog food manufacturer provides a dog food that is sufficient to keep a dog healthy. However, the premium brands of dog food have the advantage that one can feed the dog less and still get very good nourishment. In addition, stool size and amount is generally less with the premium dog
foods. Keep in mind that feeding dogs is partly art, and partly science. The dog food manufacturers have done the science part. The rest is up to you. Some people feed their dogs a mix of canned and dry food twice a day. Others feed only dry and allow free feeding, and so on. Be sure and pick a frequency of feeding, brand, and type of food
to suit your dogs needs. For working Siberians, a "performance" formula is in order. For Siberians that go for walks and hikes, a "maintenance" formula is usually best. Consult your breeder and veterinarian for advice.
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My Siberian Husky inhales his/her food, occassionally choking. What can I do about it?
Most Siberian Huskies eat with vigor. This is a good thing, as likely you'll never have to deal with a picky eater. However, what you describe is potentially dangerous, and obviously upsetting to you. I have found two methods work best for this situation. 1 - Add a small amount of water to the dog's dry kibble or 2 - place a non-edible object in their dish (i.e.: a stone bigger than the size of your fist. The first makes them slow down in order to drink the "juice" that is made from their food, the latter forces them to "eat around" the object. Both have worked well, but I find adding water to be a sufficient deterant for an aggressive eater.
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Housing -
What type of outdoor housing does my Siberian Husky need?
Siberian Huskies are happiest when they can share in family activities. The best arrangement is one in which the dog can come in and out of the house of its own free-will, through a dog door. If a dog door is not possible, then training the dog to go to an outside door to be let out is also very easy to do.
Outside, the dog should have a large, fenced yard. The fence should be strong and at least 6 feet tall. It is also a good idea to bury wire in the ground to discourage digging out. Siberians are notorious diggers. It is usually best to set up a sand box somewhere in a shaded part of the yard and encourage digging there, if possible. Siberians should NEVER be allowed to roam around the neighborhood.
If one chooses to kennel a Siberian, the kennel should be chain link, with a concrete run, and should be 6 to 7 ft wide and 10 to 15 ft long. It should be at least 6 ft high with chain link across the top of the kennel. It should be in a shaded location and have an insulated dog house with a door for shelter from the elements.
Because the Siberian is an arctic dog, it can remain outside in very cold weather. However, it should be provided with shelter from the elements in the form of a good sturdy house. The house should have a flat roof, as Siberians love to lay on top of their houses and observe the world. A good insulated house with nice straw bedding is perfect for Siberians that spend most of their time outside. Heating the dog house is usually not necessary.
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Training -
My Siberian Husky digs constantly and is destroying the yard. What can I do?
Digging can be a very difficult problem to solve. It is the nature of the breed to dig cooling holes to lie in. One method that has worked occasionally for me is to provide the dog an area in your yard in which he is allowed, even encouraged, to dig and train him to dig there. A sand-box, of sorts, with soft cool dirt with an occasional treat buried there can work. There are other methods of solution to this problem, but I have not tried them.
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My Siberian Husky howls all day long, annoying the neighbors. What can I do?
This too is a simple problem to solve. This problem should be approached in a series of stages. Stage 1 is use simple negative reinforcement when the dog makes unacceptable noise. This must be done repeatedly, every time it happens, for several days. Stage 2 is to step it up by employing a willing, perhaps the annoyed, neighbor to help. Have him squirt the dog with water when the noise happens. Most Siberian Huskies do not care to be sprayed. You could also employ any number of devices on the market designed to apply a squirt of water when a noise happens. I have never used one, but it should work. Unfortunately, it will not be able to distinguish between your dog making noise and a loud car, so your dog may receive negative reinforcement when it is not warranted. All of these methods, if applied with patience and vigilance, should work. I have not tried stage 2. I have had stage 1 work most of the time, but occasionally have had to jump to stage 3, the bark-activated shock collar. These deliver up to eight different levels of shock to the dog when barking occurs, at adjustable levels of sensitivity. The shocks are similar to electric fences. I have used such a collar on one of my dogs, and have never had to go above level 2 on the collar. The problem was solved with the first shock. This may sound harsh, but it can save your dogs from the legal system if you have a sensitive neighbor. On a side note: I was VERY worried about a shock collar hurting my dog, so I tried it out on myself, first. It gives no more than a startling "zing" similiar to putting your tongue on a 9-volt battery.
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What should I expect when training my Siberian Husky?
Training Siberian Huskies can be a challenge. They are an extremely intelligent, energetic, and stubborn breed, and one must be ready for the unexpected. Training should start when the dog is young. You should work to establish the rules of the house early, and make sure that the puppy knows that you are in charge. For example, if you do not want the dog on the bed as an adult, do not allow it as
a puppy and never give in, even once, or the dog will think that all rules are flexible. The rule of thumb is that if you train a dog to do something, expect him to do it. Therefore, if the puppy learns that certain things are allowed, it will be difficult to train them not to do them as adults.
Since the dog is pack-oriented, it important to establish yourself as the head of the pack, or alpha, very early. Once you do this, the dog will respect you and training will be much easier. It is very important to understand the distinction between establishing yourself as alpha and bullying the dog into submission. These are NOT the same thing! The former is simply a communication that the dog needs and expects, while the latter is very negative and detrimental to the dog's well-being. By establishing yourself as the leader of the pack early, your dog will
learn to respect you and look to you for guidance and will know where the boundaries for acceptable behavior lie. It is best to enroll in a puppy training class (or puppy kindergarten training as they are commonly known) soon after your dog is home and has all of its vaccinations. This training is good for the dog and for you as the owner, as it will help you understand your new puppy and establish you as alpha very early in the puppy's life, which is important with this breed. Once you have completed the puppy class, and have been working with the dog for a few months, a basic obedience class is in order.
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Should I take obedience classes with my Siberian Husky?
Absolutely! Very young puppies (about 12 weeks old and complete with their vaccinations) should atten a puppy kindergarten class.
Further obedience training this breed can be very interesting and extremely challenging. Many owners will complain that their dogs act perfectly in class, but will not obey at home. This breed is intelligent enough to differentiate situations very well, and will apply different rules of behavior for different situations. You must stay on top of the dog and maintain control, which is easier to do while the dog is of manageable size than with a stubborn, energetic adult that has been allowed to get away with undesirable behavior for a long time.
It is VERY important to remember that the Siberian Husky is a "working breed". His heritage has endowed him with the desire to run and his conformation has given him the ability to enjoy it effortlessly. Because of this, it is important that no Siberian ever be allowed unrestrained freedom. In addition, most Siberians have a strong predator drive that can translate into trouble. This is usually
directed toward neighborhood cats, birds, rodents, and other small animals. For his own protection, he should be confined and under control at all times.
Since he is a working dog, he must be given something to do. Exercise may be obtained in the leash, at play, and best of all, through mushing. Siberians make wonderful hiking companions, and with a dog backpack, can carry food and water. Above all, if you feel that it is inconvenient or cruel to keep a dog confined and under control like this, then the Siberian Husky is not the breed for you.
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My Siberian Husky puppy is very noisy, particularly at night. What can I do?
This is not particularly common to the breed, but since I get asked this question occasionally, it is worth repeating the answer. The noisy puppy at night is simply lonely. He needs to be near his "pack," which is you in this case. It used to be his littermates. Over time, your puppy will learn what I would call "pack permanence," borrowed from the term "object permanence" in which a human infant learns that objects that "disappear," i.e., a dropped toy, a parent leaving the room, return. They do not vanish from his or her "universe," that is, they are "permanent." In the puppy, he needs reassurance that you are "permanent." One easy method is to use a crate at night with your puppy,
and put the crate next to your bed. When your puppy wakes and whines, you can easily reassure, or in some cases gently "rattle" the cage, to quiet the dog. Crate training is also an effective house training technique. See also the section on "Talking".
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My Siberian Husky puppy seems to be potty training very slowly or not at all. What can I do?
Some of the most common problems new dog owners have involve housebreaking issues and with their Siberian Husky puppy damaging their belongings when he/she is alone in the house. In fact, these are some of the most common reasons owners give for surrendering puppies and dogs to pounds, shelters and rescues. However, these problems are easily solved when the puppy or dog is properly crate trained. Crate training is by far the most effective technique for potty training your dog.
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I don't want to crate train my dog it's cruel to put him/her in a cage! Isn't it?
Using a crate is NOT cruel. It approximates a den, which dogs in their wild state slept in for hundreds of thousands of years. Modern dogs maintain the "den instinct" which is why use of a crate is so effective in housebreaking. A dog will NOT soil where it sleeps. This is a throwback to the days when dogs were predators in the wild and needed safe places to sleep and rear their young. If they eliminated in the den, other predators would seek them out through the scent and prey upon the young and infirmed. Thus, dogs will not soil their sleeping quarters IF they can possibly avoid doing so. The trick is to make the sleeping area small enough so your Siberian Husky cannot use one end as a bathroom and the other end as a bedroom!
A crate should be large enough so the dog can lie down and turn around in a tight circle. If it is big enough to lie down in, it will be big enough to sit in. Crates can cost anywhere from $30 to $200 and up, depending on your budget. I suggest buying a full-size crate and using a piece of plywood or other material to block off a section for puppy. This can be expanded as puppy grows. Some crate come with a "divider" just for this purpose!
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OK. I'm convinced. How do I crate train my Siberian Husky puppy?
CRATES MUST NEVER BE USED TO PUNISH! The dog has to look on the crate as his special place where he is safe and happy. Many breeders crate train their puppies from the time they leave the whelping box. Ask the breeder if the puppy has been introduced to a crate. Before bringing puppy home take a blanket or towel to the breeder and ask to put this item in with the litter at night. The blanket or towel will then be permeated with the litter/mother scent and will make those first few nights we all dread much easier. When puppy comes home it should take all of its naps in the crate and sleep there at night. The crate should also be used ANY time the humans in the house are too busy to keep an eye on puppy. The remainder of the time, the puppy should be in the company of its' new owners, being cuddled, played with, socialized and generally reassured that it is loved and cared for in its new home.
Keep in mind that puppies MUST relieve themselves BEFORE and within 15 minutes AFTER EATING, IMMEDIATELY UPON DRINKING ANY water, after PLAY and IMMEDIATELY UPON WAKING. TAKE pup outside according to this schedule at first. NEVER PUT PUPPY OUT BY HIMSELF! It just doesn't work. Let puppy walk where it wants and as soon as it relieves itself outside PRAISE IT! Bring puppy back in when you are SURE it has finished. Sometimes you KNOW puppy has to go but puppy is fooling around. WAIT! Don't bring puppy in before it has done its business - that is just asking for an accident and puppy will be happy to oblige! Each time you put puppy in the crate PRAISE IT and give it a treat.
NEVER let puppy out of the crate when it is making noise such as whining, crying or barking. Correct it by saying "NO! BAD PUPPY!" and ONLY when it has quieted should you let it out, with a "GOOD PUPPY!" If you let puppy out while it is making noise you are teaching it that making noise will get it attention and companionship, which is what it wants in the first place! This "mixed message" will be particularly difficult to straighten out in the middle of the night, when YOU want to sleep and puppy wants to PARTY! So be firm right from the start.
Let puppy out ONLY if it is quiet and NEVER once you have put it in the crate for the night. Remember that puppy is going to be missing its Mom and littermates NO MATTER WHERE IT SLEEPS and this includes YOUR bed, which I don't recommend unless you sleep on rubber sheets in a boat! So, keeping in mind that puppy will be upset whether he is in the kitchen, piddling on the floor and chewing the cabinets; or in the crate. PUT HIM IN THE CRATE! At least he will only be making lots of noise and not redecorating your house in Early Destructo!
Many people put the crate in their bedroom where they can reassure puppy during the night. Some people prefer to put the crate, for the first few nights, where they won't hear puppy crying. There is nothing wrong with either plan. However, once you have put puppy in the crate for the night, do NOT let him out unless you are fairly certain he has to eliminate. If puppy starts to cry shortly after being placed in the crate and you know it has just eliminated, give it a verbal correction at once (NO! BAD PUPPY! QUIET!). Repeat if necessary until puppy settles down. If you let puppy out of the crate every time it cries, it will never learn to accept the crate.
When preparing puppy for being crated all night it is best not to feed puppy or give anything to drink (unless it is during a very hot summer) after about 6-7pm. It takes 2-4 hours for puppy to digest food and water. Exercise puppy LOTS in the evening. Wear puppy out. Take puppy out as late as possible (11pm works well). Take your time for this last outing of the night. Be absolutely certain puppy is EMPTY before putting it in the crate. Put puppy in the crate with toys, the security blanket and the old stand-bys - a loud ticking clock (old wind-up clocks work well and immitate the beating of puppy's littermates' heartbeats), a hot water bottle (for snuggling up to something warm) and stuffed animals with eyes, nose, etc. removed first. Praise puppy, say goodnight and go to bed.
As a general rule DO NOT GO BACK TO PUPPY UNTIL AT LEAST 3:30 OR 4AM. By then puppy probably will have to go out for real. Puppy bladders and bowels are just not mature enough to hold it much longer than that. However, some puppies simply cannot go longer than 2-3 hours, even at night, without urinating. If the puppy persists in crying and has been crated for at least 2 hours, assume it has to eliminate and take it outside. Keep these sessions short and quiet. Do not socialize with the puppy and once it has eliminated, take it right back inside and crate it again. The EARLY mornings come with puppy territory, like 2am feedings and babies.
By about 5 months the puppy's bladder should start to mature and puppy will start sleeping later. But for now all you can do is grin and bear it! When you take puppy out at this uncivilized hour do so with a minimum of conversation. Puppy should know that this is NOT playtime. When he does his business outside PRAISE HIM as usual and bring him right back in, put him back in the crate and go back to bed. Don't go back to him now, either. Puppy should be fine now until you are ready to get up at your regular time. Just remember: Once you have put puppy in the crate don't go back to him for at least 2 hours. If you do, you are teaching him that making lots of noise will get him what he wants - your company. Puppy must learn that nights are for sleeping and his sleeping place is the crate. Once he learns this lesson - and it will take about 2-4 nights - he will begin to look on the crate as his special place. One day you will look for puppy and find him, curled up in the crate where he went by himself to catch a few Z's!
Once you have used the crate properly - NEVER TO PUNISH! - your house will be safe from "puppy destructo raids" and your puppy will be safe from the myriad dangers that lie in wait for lonely, bored and curious puppies such as: chicken bones or other inedible "treats" from the garbage; chocolate left in reach of dogs which is a poison to dogs; electric wires that could electrocute a puppy if chewed; cleaning solutions; toilet bowl cleaners; poisonous house plants; small toys or socks that could be swallowed....I could go on and on! So please, use that crate! You will wonder how you ever survived without one and your puppy will have a SAFE place to be when left alone.
Please remember that puppies are like babies when it comes to bladder and bowel control. Don't ask puppy to "hold it" longer than is physically comfortable for puppy and try not to leave a dog crated longer than 5-6 hours at a time during the day if you can avoid doing so.
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Barking, Talking, Howling, and -
Do Siberian Huskies bark?
Siberian Huskies are rather quiet dogs. They do not typically bark. They do talk, however, in a "woo woo woo" sound. They can also howl quite well. Owners of multiple Huskies report frequent howling, starting and stopping simultaneously. Occasionally, at the most inopportune moments - like 3:00 am. Since the Siberian, like other northern breeds, is a very pack oriented animal, this behavior is typical.
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Eye Problems -
Are Siberian Huskies prone to eye problems?
Of the three major eye diseases of the Siberian Husky, hereditary cataracts are the most common, followed by corneal dystrophy, and progressive retinal atrophy. Within the last several years (since 1999 or so) the has been an increase in Siberian Huskies diagnosed with glaucoma, as well.
All of these eye problems are most likely genetically caused. Careful screening of potential breeding pairs has helped reduce the incidence of these problem in the breed, and the current incidence of PRA is relatively low.
Obviously, Siberian owners and breeders should regularly check and clear eyes through CERF prior to embarking on a breeding program.
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What are juvenile cataracts?
According to CERF, the incidence of juvenille cataracts in the breed checked by ACVO veterinarians is around 15-18%. The actual incidence is probably higher as many long time breeders discover the anomaly in young dogs early and never certify them. With a typical juvenille cataract, the dogs vision is not usually substantially affected, and they lead
a full, happy, albeit it neutered, life. However, a more aggressive cataract also exists, which progresses quickly and may cause blindness by 2 to 3 years of age.
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What is corneal dystrophy?
Corneal dystrophy affects the cornea or the outer transparent portion of the eyeball. In most cases, Siberian Huskies with this disorder have an abnormal collection of lipids in the clear cornea of the eye which results in a hazy or crystalline opacity. Ophthalmologists describe the location of the opacity as anterior, mid, or deep stromal. The Siberian Husky is prone to deep stromal dystrophy which involves triglyceride deposits. Annular dystrophy also occurs and appears as a doughnut shaped opacity in the peripheral cornea. Corneal dystrophy is usually seen in young adult dogs and may affect females more than males. Vision is seldom affected and no effective therapy for the condition exists at this time. Recent genetic tests are suggesting that a recessive gene with variant expression transmits this disorder. Some corneal dystrophy is often not present or detectable until age 4 to 6 years, at which time the dog could easily have produced a few litters and perpetuated the problem. This will prove to be a difficult genetic disease to eliminate from the breed.
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What is PRA/CPRA?
Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) and central progressive retinal atrophy (CPRA) affects the retina, the light-sensitive inner lining of the posterior part of the eyeball. The retina contains two types of specialized cells called rods and cones. The rods are necessary for sight in dim light or night light, and the cones are utilized in in bright light vision. The Siberian Husky has a unique type of PRA that is only found in Siberians and man. This type of PRA is called XLPRA (X Linked PRA) since it is transmitted through the "XX" chromosome of the female. It will cause a loss of night vision followed by a loss of day vision, eventually blindness. The recessive gene for XLPRA is situated on the "X" chromosome of the female. Females who inherit a defective gene on the "X" chromosome from one parent and a normal gene on the other "X" chromosome from the other parent, will not be seriously affected. They will be carriers with very subtle retinal defects and no loss of vision. The male puppy from a carrier dam will receive either a defective gene or a normal gene, depending on what chromosome was copied in the DNA replication. If he has the defective gene, the dog will be affected with PRA since males carry an "XY" chromosome. The disease in males can be devastating with loss of vision as early as 5 months of age.
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What is glaucoma?
Glaucoma causes the animal significant pain and vision loss usually before it is detected by the owner. This disease is still being investigated by the Siberian Husky Club of America to determine it's significance in the breed. They have not yet (as of February 2005) recognized it as a hereditary disease in the Siberian Husky.
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Hip Dysplasia -
Do Siberian Huskies get hip dysplasia?
The Siberian Husky is a remarkably healthy breed. When well cared for, the Siberian is relatively "maintenance free", outside of normal checkups and vaccinations. The incidence of hip dysplasia in Siberians is fairly low. However, breeding Siberians should, among other things, be OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) certified prior to breeding. OFA certification cannot be granted prior to 24
months of age. Conscientious efforts of breeders have kept the incidence of this condition low in the Siberian. See also the Siberian Husky Club of
America's webpage dedicated to: "Your Siberian Husky: It's Hips and I's Eyes" (http://www.shca.org/shcahp4d.htm).
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Sledding -
Where can I get more information about the Iditarod?
The Iditarod is a LONG distance sled race run in Alaska every year in March. Siberian Huskies compete in this race regularly. There are many people who believe that this endurance race is cruel. Nothing could be further from the truth! Please visit www.sunhusky.com/Facts/ for an indepth look at the controversy, as thoroughly investigated by June Price.
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